Bay of Islands

Best time to visit Bay of Islands

December to March is peak season in the Bay of Islands: warm, sunny, dolphin-swimming tours available daily, and the Waitangi Treaty Grounds running a full programme. The water reaches up to 23 degrees and is clear enough for snorkelling. If you want the full holiday experience, this is when to come. November and April are quieter and often a better choice for travellers who want to see popular spots like Hole in the Rock without the crowds. Campground and tour prices drop in the shoulder season. In winter (June to August) the Bay of Islands stays unusually mild: the subtropical climate keeps temperatures above 14 degrees. Rain becomes more likely, but the landscape turns a deeper green. Most tours run year-round, and dolphins and seals are in the bay all year. With a campervan, the Bay of Islands is one of the most pleasant regions of the North Island. Roads are well maintained, campgrounds sit right on the water, and the freedom to set off early and stop spontaneously at a quiet bay is especially valuable here. The region works well as a loop from Auckland: head north, stay a few days, then take a different route back and continue to the Coromandel.

From Auckland to the Bay of Islands

From Auckland to Paihia, the main town of the Bay of Islands, it's about 3 to 3.5 hours north on the SH1. The route passes through Wellsford and Whangarei, both good stops for fuel and shopping. Whangarei is Northland's largest town and has every supermarket you'd need: Pak'nSave is recommended, and it's the last affordable shopping option before the bay. From Whangarei to Paihia it's another 60 minutes or so.

The moment your campervan arrives at the harbour in Paihia and the Bay of Islands opens up with its 144 islands makes the drive more than worth it. The water is turquoise, the islands are scattered in the sunlight, and tours depart from the pier all day. Arrive in the morning and book your first boat tour for that same afternoon.

Alternative route via the west coast: if you have more time, drive from Auckland west through Helensville and Dargaville into the Waipoua Kauri Forest, home to Tane Mahuta, New Zealand's largest living kauri tree. This route adds half a day to the drive, but it's worth it for anyone who wants to understand New Zealand's natural history.

Paihia, Russell, and the islands

Paihia is the tourist hub: the ferry terminal, booking offices for every tour, restaurants and cafes on the water. The atmosphere is lively, sometimes too lively for a long evening. For campervan travellers, Paihia is mainly the starting point for the tours.

Russell, on the other side of the bay, is quieter, more historic, and nicer for an afternoon or evening than Paihia. The ferry takes 15 minutes and costs 14 NZD for foot passengers. Russell was New Zealand's first European settlement, and it shows: plenty of old timber buildings, a good museum, and the country's oldest still-operating pub (the Duke of Marlborough, recommended).

The 144 islands are barely inhabited, and many have their own beaches, walking tracks, and anchorages. With a campervan you reach the islands by boat tour: Hole in the Rock at the eastern tip, dolphin-swimming tours, and guided island cruises are the main options departing from Paihia.

Northland beyond the Bay of Islands is worth it if you're planning more than three nights. Kerikeri, half an hour west of Paihia, is the trading hub with a good supermarket and the Stone Store, New Zealand's oldest stone building. Ninety Mile Beach north of Kaitaia isn't actually 90 miles long, but it is a straight 88 km stretch of sand road leading to Cape Reinga. The cape itself is the most spiritually significant place in New Zealand for Māori: this is where the spirits of the deceased enter the underworld. The lighthouse at the northernmost point, where the Pacific and Tasman meet, is a must for anyone with time for the detour.

Hole in the Rock and swimming with dolphins

Hole in the Rock is a rock passage at the outer tip of the Bay of Islands that boats actually sail through when the sea is calm. The trip from Paihia takes about 3 hours round trip. Operators: Fullers GreatSights and Explore NZ, both including island stops and dolphin spotting along the way. Price around 100 to 130 NZD. In peak season, book for the morning.

Swimming with dolphins is an experience of its own: bottlenose and common dolphins are in the bay year-round. Swimming with them isn't guaranteed, since the animals are wild and decide for themselves whether to approach the boat. Exploremore NZ in Paihia offers certified dolphin-swimming tours with a refund if no dolphins show up.

If you want to see dolphins for free, the coastal road from Paihia to Ngunguru offers sea views at several points. Dolphins sometimes come into shallow coastal water, especially early in the morning. Setting off early with your campervan and waiting at a lookout costs nothing and is often surprisingly successful.

Waitangi Treaty Grounds

Waitangi is the most historically significant site in New Zealand: this is where the treaty between the British Crown and Māori chiefs was signed in 1840, the founding act of modern New Zealand. The grounds are right north of Paihia and open daily. Entry costs around 50 NZD, including a guided tour and kapa haka performances.

The Treaty House is preserved in its original state and gives a direct sense of early colonial history. Next to it stands the Whare Runanga (meeting house) with elaborate carvings. The lookout over the bay from the grounds is one of the finest panoramic views in all of Northland.

For travellers who don't know much about New Zealand's history: half a day at Waitangi changes how you see everything else you visit in New Zealand afterwards. Māori culture, land rights, and the history of settlement are explained here in a context that isn't presented this well anywhere else.

Campgrounds and moving on

Paihia TOP 10 Holiday Park sits right on the water with island views, a 2-minute walk from the ferry terminal. Book early in peak season. Price around 30 to 50 NZD per night. Waitangi Campground sits right by the treaty grounds, quieter than Paihia, also on the water.

DOC campsite on Urupukapuka Island: one of the islands in the Bay of Islands has a DOC campsite right on the beach, reachable by ferry or water taxi. Leave the campervan on the mainland and spend a day and a night on the island: it's one of the region's special options. No hotel, no restaurant, just the bay, the jetty, and the water.

From the Bay of Islands back to Auckland or further south: if you're following the North Island route, you'll usually return on the SH1 and then turn off towards the Coromandel. Alternatively, take the east coast route (SH25) through Warkworth and Orewa, with stops at the beaches of the Hibiscus Coast. Both routes to Auckland take about 3 hours.